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Wind River Range
Identification
of the peak Frémont climbed in 1842
Copyright © 1999, 2001 by
Bob Graham
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I have not been to the Wind River Range. But
from following the narrative of the Report of the
1st Expedition, the examination of the Preuss map
and USGS DEM files of topographic quadrangles, and
the barometric register of Frémont's
observations, I have come up with the route that I
think best fits the description of the account in
the Report of the 1842 expedition. The route leads
to the peak Frémont called "Snow Mountain"
that modern maps call Fremont Peak.
Many historians and biographers have
characterized Frémont's 1842 climb of the
peak in the Wind River chain as not only reckless
and ill advised, but vainglorious. In actuality, it
was probably the most important scientific
work performed on the expedition. No high peak had
ever been measured in North America, and
geographers had no real knowledge of the height of
the storied Rocky Mountains. This was pioneering
use of barometry in exploration--first introduced
into survey work by Frémont's mentor Joseph
N. Nicollet. The barometric observations made were
not only a first, but a very thorough and as useful
today as when they were made in 1842.
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In making an identification of the 1842
expeditionary route, and identity of the
particular peak climbed, all of the
following have been examined:
Fremont's narrative, as published
in the 1843 Report to Senate of the United
States.
Frémont's Tables of Astronomical
Observations, and Meteorological
and Barometric
Registers--appendices to that
report.
The Report illustrations, drawn by
Charles Preuss.
The 1843 Frémont / Preuss
map.
Expedition cartographer Charles
Preuss's diary.
See bibliography
below.
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The Report
Illustrations
These
are the two engravings of the drawings made by
Charles Preuss in the Wind River Chain of the Rocky
Mountains in 1842. The first is from the approach
(at Lost Lake), with Frémont and Jackson
Peaks to the right. The second is of Island Lake
with Frémont and Jackson Peaks behind it on
the left. The base camp is atop the foaming
torrent, which tumbled into the little lake about
one hundred and fifty feet below us.
An aerial map of the approach route.
More than one critic has objected to these
drawings as whimsy--not representing the actual
landscape. There is no question that Preuss has
somewhat exaggerated the vertical in his
renderings, but there is nice correspondence when
considered as a whole.
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See
how these two views combined
represent the range, and also the approach
route from Two Buttes and Boulder
Lake.
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Frémont recorded on page 67 in the 1843
Report that the range...is correctly represented
in the view from the camp of Island Lake--the
lower image here, which is the frontispiece. In the
1845 Report it is p.70 and facing.
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The
above view of Island Lake is looking approximately
east at Fremont and Jackson Peaks, whereas this
postcard image is looking north, up Titcomb Valley,
with Mt. Woodrow Wilson off in the distance.
Other Preuss location drawings and
correlations:
Long Camp at Carson Pass
Pyramid Lake, Nevada
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The
Report Narrative of the Climbing
Routes
There
are two climbing routes described in the
narrative; two days, and two different
attempts.
Based on the narrative entries from the Report, and
these visual correlation's, the image to the right
depicts my tentative view of the two routes that
were taken--the failed attempt of the 14th of
August, 1842, and the successful attempt the
following day. These are only approximate climbing
routes.
On the August 14th, Frémont
recorded, On every side as we advanced was heard
the roar of waters, and a torrent, which we
followed up a short distance, until it expanded
into a lake about one mile in length. This
would be the lakes in Titcomb Valley--they combine
to this length--no other lake or combination does.
They, immediately have to contend with ice fields:
On the northern side of the lake was a bank of
ice, or rather snow covered with a crust of
ice.
On August 15th, by an entirely different
route, to the left of yesterday's route, he
recorded passing three small lakes of a green
color, each perhaps a thousand yards in
diameter. This time, instead of the roar of
waters...a torrent, they follow a small
stream. Preuss adds in his diary, toward the
base of the next highest peak, which I take
to be Jackson Peak, the route through Indian Basin.
They do not encounter snow until about 1800 feet
above the lakes. The summit itself was bare
rock, (sienitic gneiss), but on the back
side of the peak, the shaded side, he discovered a
massive field of ice and snow--this is today called
Frémont Glacier.
Frémont Peak is a popular climbing venue.
Most climbers have no idea they are reenacting what
was a front-page event in 1842. This link is to one
climber's (Martin
Cuma) photographic record of the climb. This
takes a bit of time to load, but when fully loaded,
clicking in various places along the red climbing
route brings up photographs of the vantage from
that particular point.
Here is another which shows climber Jeremy Hanks
atop the peak. Frémont wrote, "I sprang upon
the summit, and another step would have
precipitated me into an immense snow-field five
hundred feet below." Jememy is shown not springing
onto the summit, but "clinging" to it--"I don't use
the term 'clinging' lightly either. The wind was
gusting over 40 MPH, and there was a sheer cliff
just below me!"
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A
Summary of Expedition Movements between
August 14 and 16, 1842
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8/14 Having had no food since
the previous mid day, Frémont sets
out from the Island Lake camp, and
proceeds up Titcomb Valley. They
make the first attempt on Fremont
Peak.
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Preuss and Carson get within
1000' of the summit, but cannot
proceed.
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Frémont becomes ill,
and directs Basil Lajeunesse to return
to the Mule Camp
(*Lost
Lake) and, if possible, to return
with mules and blankets and food.
Later, having recovered, Frémont
returns to the Island Lake camp,
and, a short time later, Basil returned
with animals and supplies.
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8/15 In the morning, with all
rested and fed, Carson returns to the
Mule Camp with all except Preuss,
Lajeunesse, Lambert, Jannisse, and
Descoteaux [de Couteau]. Mounted
on mules, Frémont leads them up
through Indian Basin to the base of
Jackson Peak. From there they
proceed to the Summit of Fremont
Peak.
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They take barometric readings
and compass bearings, and return in the
afternoon to the Island Lake
camp.
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8/16 In the morning they leave
Island Lake, find the burnt out
fires of the Mule Camp and supplies
that have been left behind for them, and
proceed on to the main camp at Boulder
Lake.
*
The approach route August
10-13.
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Never before had anyone attempted
to measure the Altitude of an American
mountain with a barometer.
William H. Goetzmann,
Army Exploration of the American
West
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The
Barometric
Observations
Frémont
says that the peak climbed was 13,570'--
determined by reduction of the barometric
observations made on the summit and at the
camp at Island lake. The reductions
are not shown in the appended tables;
however, they were based on comparison
with the barometric register of Dr.
Engelman at his observatory in St. Louis.
St. Louis is over 1000 air-line
miles east of Frémont's
observations--much too removed, but the
only data then available.
So, I ran Frémont's Wind River
barometric observations from the 1843
Report (page 195) through my HP67
calculator in a program I devised several
years ago using the formula:
Z= 62,900
log10
P0/P,
where Z=altitude in feet, P=Pressure at
the upper limit in any units, and
P0=pressure
in same units as above corresponding to
zero altitude.
This is an old Bureau of Standards formula
once used in calibrating aircraft
altimeters. It works well to 15,000' at
middle latitudes, and assumes a mean
temperature of the air column (isothermal
temperature) of 50°f.
Click for the program for use in HP
programmable RPN calculators.
And ( )
as a download in an
Excel®
spreadsheet.
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Below
are my reductions (not
Frémont's) using
Frémont's barometric readings
as published in the Report.
By the USGS map, Island Lake is
10,346'.
The campsite is stated in the narrative to
have been at the top of the waterfall, 100
feet above the level of the lake, which,
would be at about 10,446' elevation, and
is shown on the aerial photograph at
right. On a topographical
map, this place is very close to the
10,440' contour. (Note--John Grebenkemper
has since (2003) verified this elevation
using WAAS enabled GPS.)
The elevation of the Island Lake
campsite, as the one known, is used
as a constant in all the following
calculations.
The sea level equivalent pressure for the
that camp is then calculated for each day
to match Frémont's barometric
observation. Like Standard Time, as
opposed to Local Time, this is a now
standard mathematical reduction: it is how
your weather station, or home barometer,
presents the data.
The resulting sea level equivalent is then
used in making determinations for the
other observations on the same day at the
unknown elevations.
FrequentlyAskedQuestion:
"Com'on, Bob; do you really
place any confidence in
Frémont's jury-rigged
barometer?"
Yep. Absolutely. A mercury barometer
is a direct-reading instrument.
The repair as
described should have had no effect
on the accuracy of the instrument.
Indeed, this has since been verified by
John
Grebenkemper in his 2003 analysis
of Fremont's barometric register during
these days. On site, in June 2004, John
also confirmed the elevation of the
campsite with WAAS enabled GPS.
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1842
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Frémont
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sea
level
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Elevation
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8/13, 5:30
pm
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.532"Hg
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30.09"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/13, Sunset
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.522"Hg
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30.10"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/14,
Sunrise
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.573"Hg
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30.15"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/14, noon
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Gap
reached by Preuss
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19.401"Hg
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30.15"Hg
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12,043'
el.
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8/14, 5:00
pm
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.643"Hg
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30.24"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/14, Sunset
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.641"Hg
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30.24"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/15,
Sunrise
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.662"Hg
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30.27"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/15, 6:00
am
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.672"Hg
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30.28"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/15, 9:30
am
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Indian
Basin
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20.450"Hg
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30.28"Hg
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10,722'
el.
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8/15, 1:00
pm
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Summit
#1
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18.320"Hg
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30.28"Hg
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13,727'
el.
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Summit
#2
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18.293"Hg
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30.28"Hg
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13,767'
el.
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8/15, Sunset
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.642"Hg
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30.24"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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8/16,
Sunrise
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Island
Lake camp (10,466')
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20.651"Hg
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30.24"Hg
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10,446'
el.
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The results are interesting, as it is a near fit
to the proposed route, but to no other.
Note the variation of the pressure at the Island
Lake camp: Frémont records a wind storm on
the 13th followed by fair weather.
The results look very close to Frémont
Peak's elevation of 13,745'; Mt. Woodrow Wilson is
13,502'.
Why is the Report elevation
given as 13,570'--lower by 175' than today's
surveyed elevation of 13,745'?
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The
elevation reported in the narrative
portion of the 1843 report gives the
elevation of the peak as 13,570".
The reduction of the barometric
observations taken on the mountain were
done by Dr. George Engelmann at the
government observatory in St. Louis after
the return of the expedition. Dr.
Engelmann's barometric register covering
the period of the expedition was publised
as an appendix to Frémont's Report,
and was apparently used in the reductions
of Frémont's observations. Though
too far removed from Frémont's
locations, there was then no collected
barometric data west of St. Louis for
reduction purposes. The report states only
that in calculation, the tables used
were those of Bessel and of Oltmanns, as
given in Humboldt. They did the best
they could, and it wasn't bad for
pioneering work on a reconnaissance.
Dr. Engelmann was a founder of the St.
Louis Academy of Science and the Missouri
Botanical Garden--the latter a repository
for many botanical specimens collected on
Frémont's expeditions. In 1998 the
Missouri Botanical Garden published
Stanley Welsh's
John Charles Frémont Botanical
Explorer.
About Frémont's botanical
contributions
Map and
Engelmann street address courtesy of
Andrew Colligan, Archivist, Missouri
Botanical Garden
Additional useful
infirmation was kindly sent by Cal
Stuart at the Missouri Historical
Society.
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Most of the hypsometrical
measurements...made by
different explorers during the
last twenty years or more, by
Nicollet, Frémont,
Owen, Wisliznus, Emory,
Stansbury...took the altitude
of St. Louis as their starting
point, and were based to a
great extent on the
barometrical observations of
those explorers compared with
mine. George Engelmann,
1859
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Frémont's barometers had been
calibrated at the observatory in St. Louis
before he left. If they had survived the
expedition, they would have been compared
again on their return. But
Frémont's barometers never did make
it back.
August 16, 1842. In the
course of the afternoon's march the
barometer was broken past remedy. I
regretted it, as I was desirous to
compare it again with Dr. Englmans
barometers at St. Louis, to which mine
were referred; but it had done its part
well, and my objects were mainly
fulfilled It had touched the highest
point of its destiny, and would never
be put to a less noble use.
Mercurial barometers are fragile.
Read the report of an early use of the
aneroid barometer on a survey
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Here is a thoroughly rigorous scientific
examination of the Frémont
barometric observations in the Wind River
Range by John
Grebenkemper. John says that this
conclusively shows that Fremont climbed
Fremont Peak in 1842.
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OK; Frémont Peak is not the
tallest peak in the Rocky Mountains. What
Frémont said was this:
The height of these mountains,
considered by the hunters and traders to highest
in the whole range, had been a theme of constant
discussion among them; and all had looked
forward with pleasure to the moment when the
instrument, which they believed to be true as
the sun, should stand upon the summit and decide
their disputes.....From the description given by
Mackenzie of the mountains where he crossed
them, with that of a French officer still
farther to the north, with Colonel Long's
measurements to the south, joined to the opinion
of the oldest traders of the country, it is
presumed [my
emphasis] that this is the highest peak of
the Rocky Mountains.
How this all works--Hypsometry.
BUT, what is astonishing, is that Frémont
did this after having repaired (major structural
repairs!) to his barometer a few days before. He
had a perfect conceptual understanding of the
instrument--no doubt part of his training under
Nicollet.
And a good measure of what was once called
Yankee Ingenuity. Imagine! Getting these
readings with a barometer with a cow horn cistern
stuck on with camp-made hide glue.
The barometer repair.
The G. P.
A. Healy portrait
 The
little seen portrait at left by G. P. A. Healy
(1813-1894) is in the collection of the Union
League Club of Chicago. It shows Frémont
in front of a portion of the view of the Wind River
Range drawn by Charles Preuss (cf. top image
above). Frémont is represented here as a
man of about the 28 years of age that he was in
1842. It is not known, however, exactly when this
portrait was painted, or if it was done from
life.
The
Wind River view used by Healy is the version of the
Preuss drawing not published until 1845, by which
time Frémont had received a double Brevet to
Captain, so the earlier rank depicted is probably
to commemorate the feat. It is one of only two
portraits that I know of showing Frémont in
the uniform of a second lieutenant. The other is
shown at right. It appears in James M. Cutts'
The Conquest of California and New Mexico,
1847. It is possible that this, an engraving that
may have been done from a daguerreotype (and
therefore reversed, or reversed again by the
engraver) was used as the model for the Healy
painting.
See some of the published peak illustrations
1856-1900.
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Frémont's contributions to
METEOROLOGY; seminal work, but a Definitive
result.
Fremont Peak, 1842. "The summit rock was gneiss,
succeeded by sienitic gneiss. Sienite and feldspar
succeeded in out descent to the snow line, where we
found feldspathic granite." Frémont's
contributions to the then emerging science of
modern GEOLOGY.
Geomorphologist and Paleoclimateologist Scott Stine
uses his knowledge of the Great Basin and Sierra
Nevada to plot the 1833 trail of Joe
Walker--Revolutionary!
Frémont and Charles Preuss climb Red Lake
Peak in the Sierra Nevada on February 14, 1844
to look for the Sacramento Valley and discover Lake
Tahoe.
Everything changes; even polaris has moved
half a degree closer to the celestial pole since
1842.
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August 7th, 1878,
Summit of Frémont Peak
We found no signs of anyone having visited this
point before; but I am of the opinion that this is
the point reached by Frémont in 1842.
A. D. Wilson of the Hayden Survey.
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Three other viewpoints on the Wind River climb:
A. D. Wilson, Bonney and Bonney, David Roberts,
are found on this introductory page.
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Bibliography:
Blodget, Lorin, Climatology
of the United States and the Temperate Latitudes of the
North American Continent, J. B. Lippincott and Co.,
Philadelphia: 1857.
Bowditch, Nathaniel, Ll. D., The
New American Practical Navigator, E. and G. W. Blunt,
New York, 23rd Edition, 1853 (includes year
1842).
Frémont, J.C., Lieutenant, A
Report on an Exploration of the Country Lying Between the
Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains, on the Line of
the Kansas and Great Platte Rivers, Senate Document
243, Washington, 1843. Contains the 1843
Frémont/Preuss map.
Greely, Gen. A. W., American
Weather, Dodd, Mead & Company, New York,
1888.
Middleton, W. E. Knowles, A History
of the Barometer, The Johns Hopkins Press, Baltimore,
1964.
Negretti & Zambra, A Treatise
on Meteorological Instruments, London,
1864.
Nicollet, Joseph Nicolas, Essay on
Meteorological Observations, Printed by order of the
War Department, Washington, 1839.
Nicollet, Joseph, eds. Bray, Martha
Coleman, The Journals of Joseph N. Nicollet,
Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul, 1970.
Plympton, George W., The Aneroid
Barometer; Its Construction and Use, D. Van Nostrand
Company, New York, 1884.
Preuss, Charles, Exploring With
Frémont, Translated by Erwin G. and Elisabeth
K., Gudde, University of Oklahoma Press, Norman,
1958.
Smithsonian Meteorological
Tables [Based on Guyot's Meteorological and
Physical Tables] Second Edition (1893) - Smithsonian
Miscellaneous Collections - 1032.
Williamson, R. S., On the Use of
the Barometer on Surveys and Reconnaissances: part I,
Meteorology in its Connection with Hypsometry; part II,
Barometric Hypsometry; New York, D. Van Nostrand,
1868.
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