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Finding Frémont's
Long Camp
Copyright © 1996 and 2002 by Bob
Graham
This
drawing appears opposite page 234 of the printed report of
Frémont's second expedition. Frémont wrote,
"February 14, [1844]. Annexed is a view of the
dividing ridge of the Sierra, taken from this
encampment." The drawing is by Charles Preuss, the
expedition cartographer. Preuss made his drawings as records
of locations - drawings of cartographic correctness, as
opposed to artistic landscape renderings.
The Long Camp was reached by the advance party on
February 10, 1844 and was occupied through the 19th as the
road up from Markleeville (nearly twenty miles) was
constructed to get the horses and mules up the steep canyon
and across the deep snow. It was the base used for
explorations ahead. From the nearby peaks the Central Valley
was in view to the west, and Lake Tahoe was first seen to
the north east.
The position of both the camp and the
final crossing have been debated for many
years.
See
the many opinions:
James U. Smith, 1911; Fredrick S. Dellenbaugh,
1914; Francis P. Farquhar, 1914 and 1969; Allan
Nevins, 1939 and 1955; Erwin G. and Elisabeth K.,
Gudde, 1958; Vincent P. Gianella, 1959; Donald
Jackson and Mary Lee Spence, 1970; Thomas Fredrick
Howard, 1998.
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The latitude as given
in the narrative of the Report.
Frémont
gives the location of the Long Camp as,"...within two and a
half miles of the head of the hollow [leading up to
Carson Pass], and at the foot of the last mountain
ridge. Here two large trees has been set on fire, and in the
holes, where the snow had melted away, we found a
comfortable camp...The elevation of the camp, by the boiling
point, is 8,050 Feet." On page 235, in the body of the text,
the position of the camp is stated to be, "latitude
38° 41' 57", longitude 120° 25' 57"."
These figures are wrong as printed in the
narrative portion of the original edition of 1845, and they
are wrong in all subsequent printings to date. They are
still frequently cited and have been responsible for
misplacing both the location of the camp and the point of
the crossing of the pass, which the narrative gives as
"38° 44'." Gianella did note the apparent misprints,
and suggested the correct latitude figures, but did not
determine that the determinations made by Frémont and
published in the Astronomical Tables of the Report were
actually correct.
On
page 483 of the original Senate edition of the Report are
found Frémont's actual tables of "Astronomical
Observations." There is found, under the heading "LONG
CAMP, February 14, 1844, altitudes of Polaris...Latitude -
38° 41' 03"." The figure of 57" given in the
body of text is an obvious transposition from the erroneous
longitude figure.
And on page 484, "LONG CAMP, February 19, 1844, altitudes
of the sun...Latitude - 38° 41' 51"."
This is the final position of the long camp (nine
days long, and spread out over over 15 long
miles) that is the position of the actual summit crossed by
the party.
See the route and place.
Frémont's longitudes in this part of the
expedition are wrong by about 24 miles because his
chronometer had stopped running near Bridgeport. He had
managed to restart it, and he and Preuss and Carson had sat
up many long, cold hours taking double altitudes of Procyon,
observing lunar occultations, and the motions of the moons
of Jupiter, but the chronometer's rate of going was erratic.
The reported longitudes should be disregarded, and physical
features substituted for the second line of position.
But, for the determination of latitude, the sun at noon
and a reasonably accurate timekeeper serve well, as does,
with the same timekeeping ability, the altitude of Polaris.
Today, Polaris is within about 1 degree of the celestial
pole. In 1844, it was about 1.5 degrees distant.
The change in the position of polaris since 1844.
Frémont
used an artificial horizon with his sextant, because, unlike
when at sea, the horizon of the earth cannot actually be
seen due to physical features - mountains, in this case. The
artificial horizon is a glass-covered box filled with
mercury. The mercury forms a level mirror, and it is the
reflection of the star, or other object that is sighted. The
resulting angle must be divided by 2.
What is an artificial horizon
With the help of an assistant taking down his readings
and recording the time of each observation from a
chronometer, he made ten observations of Polaris on February
14th between 6:55 and 7:05 PM. Having the observed altitude
of the star, he had then to consult a table in an
Astronomical Almanac to correct for refraction, in order to
obtain the true altitude. Taking the apparent time of the
observation, he would consult a table of the sun's right
ascension for the year, month, day, hour, minute, and
second. Adding or subtracting the time value given therein
converts the true altitude (39° 30' 22") to latitude
(38° 41' 03"). The published tables allow us to
determine that Frémont made the observations at about
7 hours Greenwhich time. He would have chosen this hour of
about 11 o'clock local time because polaris was at its
highest directly above the celestial pole. This was because
that while the necessary correction for the position of the
star relative to the pole at this time was at its greatest,
the rate of change in the position of the star was at its
slowest, allowing for the most accurate determination to be
made if indeed, as he suspected, his time keeping was not
perfect.
In his journal entry for February 18th, Preuss says, "Our
latitude is 38° 41'," confirming Frémont's
determination of 38° 41' 03".
Going to the place: Confident that both
Frémont's latitude and Preuss's drawing were
accurate, I determined to locate the exact site of the Long
Camp. I set out on October 14, 1996 and drove to Red Lake,
at the foot of Carson Pass which lies at a latitude of
N38° 42'. I then turned south on Blue Lakes road for
about a mile to where I had determined from a Geological
Survey map that latitude 38° 41' lay.
Switching
on a hand-held Global Positioning System receiver, I was
able to confirm that I was indeed only one tenth of a mile
north of the line. Walking south with the receiver quickly
brought me to 38° 41'. The view to the west was very
nearly the same as the one drawn by Preuss - Elephant's Back
(9585' El.) to the left and Red Lake Peak (10,063' El.) to
the right. Only one thing was missing - the small dark peak
in the center. If it was there, it was hidden behind an
intervening ridge (c. 8,400' El.).
Using a compass compensated for the local 15° east
declination, I then traveled due east on the line of
latitude. The elevation at Blue Lakes road is just under
8,000' El., and about one quarter mile east are three
rounded hills, which are glacial moraines. As the hills are
ascended, the small dark peak (9,002 El.) to the west comes
slowly into view. On the north side of the hill, near the
top, at an elevation of about 8,050' (cf. Frémont's
8050 feet) is Charles Preuss's vantage point - exact in
every detail. The small center peak can be seen in this
relationship from no other position. Compare with image at
top of this page.
The
top of the hill is open on the north side, and just below
would have been Preuss's "kitchen hole" as shown in his
drawing. The low middle ground traversing the view is the
route of Blue Lakes Road - built in the middle 1850's as the
Big Trees Route connecting the Carson Route with the
southern mining districts. The large mountain to the left is
Elephant's Back. To the right, the canyon angling up at the
base of Red Lake Peak hides Highway 88 rising to Carson
Pass. The latitude is N38° 41' 03", as Frémont
and Preuss said, and the longitude is W119° 57' 19", as
determined from the Preuss drawing, using the perspective of
the small peak in the center to triangulate and the GPS
receiver to provide the numbers.
See a correlation of the two views--1844-1996.
See the entry in The Eldorado National Forest Interpretive
Associations (ENFIA) Hiking in the Greater Carson Pass
Region
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View
Larger Map
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You can navigate on this Google®
map by dragging, zoom in/out,
or change from satellite to roadmap or terrain
imagery.
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Follow the Frémont narrative on a walking tour of
the ascent of the mountain.
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Returning to the site on
snowshoes from the highway at Red Lake on February
27, 1997, I photographed the scene under winter
conditions. There was a little less snow than on
the same date in 1844. I also attached a small
brass plate on a tall silver pine in the open area
reading "Long Camp. J. C. Frémont, Kit
Carson. Feb. 10-19, 1844. N38° 41' 03" /
W119° 57' 19. Oct. 14, 1996."
But, don't bother looking for my nice brass
marker--someone stole it in fall 2001 or spring
2002. However, you can find the site with the
coordinates on this
website and in The
Crossing: available in the collections
of all the major repositories of Western History
from the Library of Congress (cat. no. 917.94/2043
21) on down.
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 A
report from a Long Camp site visitor.
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"MAYBYE" [sic] was the message I
found inscribed on a marker when I visited the Long
Camp site on July 8, 2003. Apparently a skeptic had
visited the site!
Over the years there have been many theories and
suggestions for the location of the Long Camp. Most
are presented on this website. They have, none of
them, been very specific as to the exact
location.
See them 
This website has always provided space for
contributors to provide alternate views and
additional information. Some of these alternate
views are by Peter
Lathrop, Brian
O'Connor, Lt.
Col. Paul Rosewitz, Jiggs
Caudron, Wayne
Stark, John
Grebenkemper, J.
Patton, Raymond
Aker (Drake Navigators Guild).
Perhaps the author of the MAYBYE will come forward
with his alternative.
Bob
Graham
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Just
northeast is a larger rounded hill (8256' el.) which was
free of trees and swept clean of snow (as when
Frémont described it in 1844) and covered with, as
then, dried bunchgrass, where the horses and mules were
grazed just before crossing the Pass. It is shown here in an
autumn photo looking southeast from Red Lake at the base of
Red Lake Peak. In the background are (L to R) Jeff Davis
Peak (9065'), The Nipple (9342'), and Deadwood Peak (9846').
Red Lake has been much enlarged by damming. It was quite
small, frozen, and covered with snow in 1844.
Below, the route and the place from which the observation
of polaris and the determination of latitude were made on
February 14, 1844. Frémont's determination of the
latitude of the Pass on February 19, 1844 ( 38° 41'
51") runs right down the present highway 88 at the top of
Carson Pass.

Since July, 2004, Frémont's Long Camp is now a
Geocache site. Click the Geocaching icon to visit the
page.
Anyone with a GPS device can participate in this popular new
hobby. There are probably many geocaches right near you.
Geocacher LFlood found it: Thank you for your
scholarship and efforts to preserve our history. This is a
highly deserving cache location. I'm glad it is still in its
pristine state.
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THE
CROSSING, by Bob Graham, tells this
story step by step and day by day, in the words of
Frémont, Carson, and expedition cartographer
Charles Preuss, along with annotation and maps
detailing the route. Also the location of the Long
Camp, GPS coordinates, and a map to find the place
are provided, as are clues to the location where
the bronze howitzer
was left on January 29, 1844.
Excerpts from The
Crossing. This will change to other
date ranges from time to time.
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