email November 2004
WHAT PEAK DID JOHN CHARLES
FRÉMONT
ACTUALLY CLIMB IN 1842.
A response to Orrin Bonney's and Clark Prestia's
determinations for Mt. Woodrow Wilson.
by
J. Patton, Fremont County, Wyoming.
From the description given by Mackenzie of the mountains where he crossed them, with that of a French officer still farther to the north, with Colonel Long's measurements to the south, joined to the opinion of the oldest traders of the country, it is presumed that this is the highest peak of the Rocky Mountains. FrémontAs shown here, from near the rendezvous area, to the naked eye, Fremont Peak (Frémont's Snow Peak) is apparently the tallest. Gannett, on the far left, is actually 59 feet taller. This photo was taken in June in an attempt to similate conditions JCF likely found.
Hi Bob G:
As a local [Wyoming] climber and path retracer
I've pondered this for a couple decades.
I have reached some conclusions
Mountain men, natives, and participants in the rendezvous near Pinedale all believed Fremont Peak to be the highest peak in the range. Even today it is apparently the highest from any angle. Gannett Peak is obscured from all angles.
Roster of area peaks by height:
The points between the photograph at right and the 1842 Charles Preuss drawing of the approach to the range correlate effortlessly. 1. Buchtel; 2. G17; 3. Henderson; 4. Titcomb Needles; 5. Illustrates the dominate snow field on the SE slope of Helen. Helen is just one of the snowy peaks, meaning that from a distance (or even close-in) the "Snow Peak" could be many. There was still snow in drifts on South Pass at 7,500' in summer (reported that decade). One can therfore interpolate the amount of snow at the higher altitiudes. The arrow in picture 1 points to the snow patch that lingers at the top of Fremont, small in this picture, but large in June and likely larger 165 years ago. The feature is known as a bowl. |
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If you move back to the Hoback Rim, just northwest of the Rendezvous sites, you can get a more distant view in which Gannett separates a little better. yet it still appears lower. And, more importantly, the day this was taken, Fremont Peak was snowcapped, Gannett was not. Fremont Peak (Frémont's Snow Peak) is apparently the tallest: Woodrow Wilson is not apparently higher than any neighbors. This is an early summer photo. |
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Here
[right], Knife Point, at the head of Indian
Basin, reveals gnarled slender pinnacles like the
ones depicted in the Preuss view of Island Lake.
The notch would be Indian Pass. The two peaks on
the left in the sketch are clearly Fremont Peak and
Jackson Peak. You would get this view only
from Indian Basin. At this resolution and
compression it's not possible to see the slender
aiguilles which I feel inspired Preuss. This is
from the largest of the Indian Lakes. Compare to
the panorama from the 
Woodrow Wilson is not dominant. The snowpatches on Helen and Jackson can be just as obvious as Gannett. Fremont Peak appears higher from yet another angle (the snowpatch was gone in this year). Aside from Fremont Peak, Jackson and Warren are dominant.
The
Green arrow [right] points to Gannett as it appears
from Island lake over the shoulder of Woodrow. It's a blip
that could be mistaken for a cloud. The Sphinx Glacier (the
snow under Woodrow Wilson) is comparable in size to the
Sacagawea Glacier (on Helen). Fremont Peak is of course too
large to even fit in a photo from this vantage, but it too
has the snow patch near the top. This is where Woodrow
Wilson begins to look like a sperate mountain of some
worthiness, but it's still obviously surrounded by larger
peaks to the layest of men.
In the photo Gannett looks like a cloud, in person, a discerning eye knows its the peak. But I had to search for the spot around Island lake from where one can see the tip of Gannett. I don't think most backpackers notice it from there. Comparable from many angles - once in the gorge, the snow field on Helen (Sacagawea glacier's edge) can no longer be seen while on the valley floor. Still, Sphinx Glacier is only dominant when you reach the head of the valley, there are several others in the valley. I say layest because JCF was such an experienced traveler and outdoorsman. It takes a person of experience to climb this peak from the carpark above Pinedale....and from St. Louis...
I use Clark Prestia's comments from his article on this website as an example: not to pick on him, but because his is the typical case made by those supporting Mt. Woodrow Wilson as the subject of the 1842 climbing venue.
First, there are label errors in the Prestia photos--this
doesn't make my case but I want to point it out:
In the first picture, "Gannett" is actually Bonney Pass,
'Wilson" is actually Helen, "Helen" is actually
Sacagawea
In second picture, "Bobs Towers" is actually Sphinx,
"Dinwoody" is actually Bob's Towers, "Spearhead" is actually
Miriam's Point.
Prestia text in blue: (Quoting Frémont) "'We rode until we came almost below the main peak...'"
You would call the attraction of the preceeding week (of the approach to the range) the 'Main' peak, because, as yet, nothing had been named. That peak would be Fremont. Neither Gannett nor Wilson is dominant from 5, 20, or 40 miles away, but Fremont Peak is. Other area peaks fall in between.
"'...which I denominated the Snow Peak as it exhibited more snow.' This most certainly is Mt. Wilson, as it is at the end of the valley and has a large snow field even in August on the face toward the Titcomb lakes."
Not
at all most certainly. See the panorama above for how
Fremont peak can hold snow on the summit slab after even a
brief squall. Or, at right, to see how Helen's snows are
more obvious from what would have been Frémont's
vantage points.
Then he [Frémont] says "'here were three small lakes,' which only could be describing the three Titcomb lakes."
In a mountain range containing over 1000 lakes I don't
know how you could conclude that. In this map
of the Island Lake surroundings how many lakes do you
count? There's a grouping of 3 in Indian Basin. Once on the
level of Titcomb, 150 feet above Island Lake, it is
difficult to group the Titcomb Lakes as 'three small'. You'd
have to say 1 large, 1 medium, several small, or 2 small
ones and a bunch of ponds, etc.
Next he says, again, quoting Frémont,
"'..we have attained but a few hundred feet above the Island Lake.' That is correct as the Titcomb basin is only 300 feet higher than Island Lake."
The transition into Titcomb is gradual compared to that from Indian Basin, which is relatively abrupt, causing a more easily gauged transition. The first Titcomb Lake above Island lake is 121 feet higher. Indian Basin sits on a shelf immediately above Island Lake and 467 feet higher. The ledge is abrupt enough to cause a rapids. Standing on a nearby knoll, if I was to guess which basin was 300 feet higher than Island Lake, it would be Indian Basin.
"No doubt we now have him at the back end of the Titcomb basin and at the base of Mt. Wilson."
No, there's still plenty of doubt. Why would Frémont assume there was more to see up there when he was already at the base of what appeared to be the highest peak they had tracked all the way from the descent of South Pass, and correlated with local information (Carson's, for instance)?
"They leave the mule to begin the climb"
Guess how far modern packers will give you a drop and how far they will take a mule? Beyond the first of the two largest Titcomb Lakes, the going becomes morainal debris which spells the end for pack animals that are cherished. You may want to verify with the Skinner brothers. They outfit to Island Lake all summer.
" and Fremont says, '1800 feet above the lakes came the snow line. 'That is about where the Mt. Wilson snow field appears even today in August."
Yes, today. But these glaciers have receded by 1/3 in recent years. What might they have looked like 160 years ago? Or on a cool summer? Or after an August snowstorm (one happened in August 2004). It is also the level of the snow patch on Fremont Peak when it is there. Keep in mind that Sphinx Glacier is not visible from afar. You don't see it until you get to Island lake and then only part of it. Also, JCF knew the difference between a glacier and a snow field. he would likely have noted crevasses if they crossed any.
"From the summit he comments 'I would only allow one at a time to mount the precarious slab.' According to mountain climbers this is the description of Mt. Wilson's summit--not the rounded top of Fremont Peak."
That's just untrue. I'm a technical climber. Fremont Peak is a knife edge on the summit. When climbing it, you expect there to be a boulder strewn summit or a false summit. When you pop onto the top it can be surprising. This is actually verified by JCF, but is not the case on Woodrow Wilson, because the lines converge to a point - you can see what's coming. On Fremont Peak's Southwest Buttress Route, you are on a buttress/ramp system under a wide ridge/massif. From the summit, you can look right off the edge and see the bergshcrund of the Upper Fremont Glacier -many peaks, you have to downclinb a bit to see a bergschrund. JCF comments about this. On Woodrow, you can see your environs more readily. Today, a few climbers at a time can huddle onto the summit rock but, if I was leading a scout troop, or if there was snow or ice near the top, I'd only allow one at a time to stand on the utmost rock. It's what a leader does.
Kit Carson, not feeling the altitude sickness like the other men, climbed the high peak to the right now believed to be Mount William H. Jackson. If we are to believe the claims for Woodrow, would that mean that Carson climbed Bob's Towers? Today, Bob's Towers and Miriam's Point do meet requisite saddle drops to earn independent peak status. The peak immediately to the right is Sphinx. When famous climbers Underhill and Henderson nailed the Sphinx in 1929 they found it a challenging Grade II Class 5.4-5.7. That would make Carson one of the greatest climbers ever. Let alone Fremont. And the additional men. Not by modern standards, but by standards of the day, he would have broken new ground, making him a great climber. But, the point is, to the right of Woodrow there is no distinct peak intil one gets to Warren which is hidden from there (see views from Gannett of the Bonney Pass area).
And, without a guidebook to help, if you were to approach the sheer south side of Woodrow Wilson, you would naturally climb Bonney Pass to see if that side was easier. That's the trend of the slope, and any outdoorsman would first try to wrap around, if not reconnoiter, and in doing so, would be staring at Gannett Peak.
Further, to claim they climbed Woodrow Wilson is to say that Frémont climbed a technical peak rated at 5.6 (the rating of the south face route) - as opposed to The SW Buttress on Fremont which is a non-technical Class 3 (stiff scramble with all four points of contact required). The listing of Woodrow as 5.6 is a general compilation. the peak does not get climbed enough for there to be a hard consensus and people tend to climb it with variations. From Kelsey: The South face is a Grade II (dawn to dusk) Class 5.4-5.6 rappel. This means that to keep the rating at 5.4 you need a 25-foot rappel to cross a notch. There is a snow couloir on the south face that goes at a technical 5.1 but it is only an early season climb and is rarely repeated due to objective danger. (It's avertical snow stripe with avalanches/falling rocks). To campaign for Woodrow, you would need to decide if they climbed one of these routes or 2 others or the standard route from the tiptop of the glacier but the latter all require a descent over Bonney pass.
Fremont
Peak/Bob's Towers/Sphinx/Woodrow Wilson from the north.
From the summit of Woodrow Wilson, Gannett is obviously higher, but so are Warren, Fremont, Sacajawea, Helen. This disparity is not so obvious from Fremont Peak, though worth noting - Gannett attracts the eye but doesn't tower above.
When Robert Underhill brought modern climbing (rope used against falls with intermediate points of protection, belay technique and rappel) to the Sierra Nevada, climbing entered a new era with the completion of the East face of Mount Whitney. It is a 5.4. The Matterhorn rebuffed many efforts of great climbers of the day. It was not climbed until 1865 by Edward Whymper at 5.5--and at the cost of 4 lives. Frémont was used to rigorous terrain, but did he have secrets of climbing techniques he shared with his men that were unknown to the famous Chamonix guides of the day? And was he able to practice those techniques with none of the later era's gear? A modern climber won't attempt Woodrow Wilson without rope, axes and crampons, yet a hundred people a year climb Fremont Peak with none of the above.
"Fremont's measurements at the top are '13,570 feet of altitude and bearing to Two Hills of 3 degrees south' which correlates with Mt. Wilson and with a little more tolerance could also fit Fremont Peak."
Actually, that's a very remarkable estimate. At that time, Chimborazo was thought to be the highest peak on the Earth, a measurement off by 8000 feet--2000 feet off on the South American continent alone. Estimates of the day for Pikes Peak were off by as much as 1000 feet. Frémont was only off by 175 feet - about how much a barometer changes at that altitude with a storm leaving and well within the accuracy range of the device. [ed. note: see the barometric register]
"I am left with the impression that John Charles Fremont and his companions actually climbed Mt. Wilson that summer day in 1842. I suspect that he realized that the massiveness of Fremont Peak might not be the highest as he had a glimpse of the snow field (viewable even today) on Gannet Peak (13,804 ft.) just slightly to the right and behind Mt. Wilson (as viewed from the Titcomb valley)."
Climbers know Gannett is higher than Fremont, but that is because of maps and guide books. To me, the Grand Teton looked higher than Gannett from Fremont. (It's between the two in height and easily seen). Gannett was the second to the last of all 50 state high-points climbed for that very reason. Also, it's a technical climb. The standard route, the Gooseneck Couloir, is a Class 4/easy 5 until the bergscrund bridge collapses sometime bewteen July-September after which it becomes a 5.1-5.2. However, Gannett is a Grade III from Island Lake. It was NOT commonly known that it was the highest, because it does not appear to be from anywhere except standing on Fremont with a surveyor's level. In fact, Gannett was not climbed until 1922.Denali ( at 20,320') was climbed before Gannett.
"Using his very intuitive and scientific skills he chose Mt. Wilson to be the highest point in the range."
That's just giving an insult to the poor old Pathfinder. Intuitively, Fremont Peak is the highest. Scientifically, you would choose Gannett, Warren, Helen, Turret, Sacagawea, AND Jackson above Woodrow, because they are all higher, AND they are all in the area. In fact, to climb Woodrow Wilson, Frémont would have had to have passed FOUR higher peaks. That would be neither intuitive nor scientific.
"He was on the right course to the highest peak (Gannett), and we cannot know his reason for not pushing on. "
He had no reason to push on. He had reached the goal that he and his men had agreed to and seen from afar. Kit Carson was in complete agreement.
When Preuss, in his sketch, depicted pinnacles to the right of Fremont and Jackson he was not showing the east wall of Titcomb (as some have said), nor the Cirque of Towers (Bonney, p. 387), but most likely Knife Point, whose thin spires attract the eye particularly at sunset while camping. This is apparent only in Indian Basin itself. See above pics.
Frémont climbed Fremont Peak in 1842.
J. Patton
Editor's note:
The tradition that Kit Carson was the first to climb Jackson
Peak is local lore that has grown in recent years from a
statement to that effect in the Kelsey Climbing Guide. It
apparently has it's basis in the following statement in
Frémont's 1843 report for August 14th:
"I sent the barometer [by Johny Jannisse] over to Mr. Preuss, who was in a gap two or three hundred yards distant, desiring him to reach the peak if possible, and take an observation there. He found himself unable to proceed further in that direction, and took an observation, where the barometer stood at 19.401; attached thermometer 50°, in the gap. Carson, who had gone over to him [to Preuss], succeeded in reaching one of the snowy summits of the main ridge [my emphasis], whence he saw the peak towards which all our efforts had been directed, towering eight or ten hundred feet into the air above him."
This was quoted by Col. Dewitt C. Peters in his 1858 Life and Adventures of Kit Carson.
On that day (Aug. 14), they were climbing on Fremont Peak
from the Titcomb Valley side, so for Kit to have reached
Jackson Peak was even more impossible than it would have
been the following day when the successful climb of Fremont
Peak was made from Indian Basin.
Kit was not involved in the sucessful climb (Aug.15th) at
all, having returned to the Mule Camp at Lost Lake, and then
continuing on to the main encampment at Boulder Lake.
When he dictated his autobiogrphy in 1856, Carson made no
mention of the 1842 expedition's side trip into the Wind
River Range at all. And when he had Peters' story of his
life read to him in 1858, Carson's only recorded statement
was that "Peters laid it on a little thick."
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