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Down the Valley in
Springtime
The Calaveras
River
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Descending the eastern slopes of the Coast
Range through beds of gilias and lupines..I at
length waded out into the midst of it. All the
ground was covered, not with grass and green
leaves, but with radiant corollas, about ankle-deep
near the foothills, knee-deep or more five or six
miles out.
John Muir,
1868
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Our road was now one continued enjoyment;
and it was pleasant, riding among this assemblage
of green pastures with varied flowers and scattered
groves, and out of the warm green spring, to look
at the rocky and snowy peaks where lately we had
suffered so much.
John Charles
Frémont, 1844
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In
this beginning of a page I am looking at some of
the campsites as the 2nd Expedition moved south
from Sutter's Fort through the Sacramento and San
Joaquin Valleys in March of 1844.
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At Sutter's Fort, three determinations of latitude were
made. Although the the expedition camp was made at the
confluence of the Sacramento and American Rivers on the
eighth of March. Frémont spent much of his time at
the Fort. The determinations of latitude made on March 14
and 15 (38° 35' 15") were apparently made at the Fort.
The first was by altitudes of Polaris, and the second by
meridian transit of the sun. They vary by only 5"--I have
used the mean.
The determination made on March 20 (38° 35' 15"), also
by meridian transit, was apparently made at the camp on the
rivers. In this aerial photograph, Sutter's Fort can be seen
at 28th and J Streets, but the campsite is probably under
Interstate 5, just north of the State Railway Museum. The
channel of the American River was changed late in the 19th
century.
Remember, there was nothing here at all in 1844 other than
the Sutter's Fort. The dark 10-block area in the photo is
Capitol Park; the white building is the State Capitol.
The following site determinations have been made
by using Frémont's determinations of latitude,
which can usually be relied upon to be very accurate. In
the previous example, the determinations of latitude on
the 14th and 15th varied by only 5".
Longitude determination was much more difficult. To
equal the accuracy of his determinations of latitude,
Frémont would have needed Time to within fractions
of a second--well beyond the capabilities of the pocket
chronometers he carried. Marine chronometers, he had
found from experience, could not survive the rigors of
these expedition routes. Therefore, in my own
determinations of his positions, the rivers on which he
camped are used as the second line of
position.
See Longitude, and the
Buenaventura River
To locate these places on a larger scale, a second
window can be called up to show an overview of the route
as recorded on the Frémont/Preuss
map of 1845. Note that the Sacramento River is not
shown north of Neuva Helvetia (Sacramento); this is
because it was not surveyed until the third expedition in
1845-46.
A preliminary move on March 22 was to the Sinclair ranch a
few miles up the American, followed by a move south on the
24th, making camp on the Cosumnes River. But even though
Frémont records the weather as "delightful," he made
no astronomical observations. The following day, after
traveling 28 miles, they arrived on the Mokelumne River, a
few miles east of the city of Lodi, shown here on a USGS
map.
The following day, March 26th, they
halted at the Calaveras River.
"On the 26th we halted at the Arroyo de las
Calaveras, (Skull creek,) a tributary to the San
Joaquin--the previous two streams entering the bay
between the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. This place
is beautiful, with open groves of oak, and a grassy sward
beneath, with many plants in bloom, some varieties of
which seem to love the shade of the trees, and grow there
in close small fields. Near the river, and replacing the
grass, are great quantities of ammole, (soap plant,) the
leaves of which are used in California for making, among
other things, mats for saddle-cloths. A vine with a small
white flower, (melothria?) called here la yerba buena,
and which, from its abundance, gives name to an island
and town in the bay, was to-day very frequent on our
road--sometimes running on the ground or climbing the
trees."
The site is shown below in a combined USGS map image and
aerial photograph. It is in a cherry orchard, which when
examined on March 18, 2003, was in full bloom. But the area
in no way suggests Frémont's description. The
Calaveras River, which was bone-dry, is today nothing
more than a Reclamation District drainage ditch--it's waters
being impounded in New Hogan Dam. There are still oak trees
(where they weren't in someone's way), but Frémont's
soap plant and la yerba buena have given way
to the now ubiquitous ditch pests--blackberry vines, stink
weed, and old tires and other discarded trash.
I checked out this location after I was contacted through
this website by Michael Bennett at the San Joaquin
Historical Society Museum. I was able to identify myself to
him as the same Bob Graham that the museum had employed
fifteen years ago to identify and catalog some 4000 antique
tools in their Floyd J. Locher Collection. Michael informed
me that there is interest in the Lodi area in commemorating
Frémont's visit with a nearby marker to be placed by
the D.A.R.
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more to come 
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Next a tough one--the camps of March 28 and 31
on the Stanislaus River--with some input from
Stockton, CA surveyor Stephen Thumblert.
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